Matt and I just returned from a wonderful, almost perfect holiday in Costa Rica. It was so much fun to just be a couple and not be parents, although we missed the kids and talked about them a lot (and greatly appreciate all the grandparents for watching them!), and reminisce about all the good times we've had over the last 10 years. We have always loved to travel together and this trip was quite an adventure.
The not-so-perfect part came just a few hours after we left the airport in Liberia. I'd been warned on several occasions that the roads would be bad, street signs few and far between, and many areas pretty remote. I was not expecting to come down a winding mountain road almost half an hour from any intersection and find its bridge missing. But such was the case around midnight on our way to our first hotel. The road was blocked but there was otherwise no warning and no detour. Thank goodness we'd gotten the GPS and we backtracked to the closest town and tried the only other roads on the map. Turns out they weren't even really roads but dirt tracks through a farm. It all worked out with a 90-minute detour, a little four-wheel drive action, and my brave husband who would go check out the road when the puddles looked too deep to attempt. Welcome to Costa Rica!

Our second day dawned much better. We went to La Fortuna to spend a couple of days exploring around the base of Arenal volcano and the view was amazing. It's been very active for several decades but everyone said it's been quiet now for the past year, so my hope of glowing lava was dashed.
This was our lovely little house with a great view.
Our first adventure was a white-water rafting trip and on the way we saw that our unexpected detour wasn't so bad when compared to this one!
A bus took us to the Rio Balsa for our rafting trip and this was the only picture I got because it was pouring rain and I didn't want to get my camera wet. We were very fortunate with the weather because it was the rainy season and this was the only time we got soaked. The rest of the time we saw rain it was either a drizzle or overnight. The rafting was lots of fun and afterward we went to the outfitter's restaurant for a great local meal.
Afterward, we soaked our tired muscles in the thermal springs at our hotel. There are all kinds of hot springs all over town but we chose the easy route and relaxed at the one just past our doorstep with a great view.
We watched the steam come out of the crater at night...pretty cool.
Our second morning we ended up on a nature tour looking for birds, frogs, and other wildlife with a great guide. I'm saving all the wildlife pictures for another post because there are so many. This was the guide's frog sanctuary where he also led night tours...after seeing so many critters during the day there is no way I'd be out there at night!
I have to share the red-eyed tree frog because he's one of the unofficial mascots of Costa Rica and amazingly beautiful. When he closes his eyes and tucks in his toes, you'd never see him on the leaves.
We did lots of bird spotting as well and saw an amazing variety.
Our two days at La Fortuna went by quickly and it was time to pack up and head towards the beach. We drove several hours through mountains and cute little towns like this on our way to Puntarenas.
In Puntarenas, we queued up for the afternoon ferry, grabbed a bite to eat, and headed across the bay to the Nicoya peninsula on the Pacific side of the country.
It was a really nice ride and took over an hour.
Once we reached Paquera, we drove several miles on paved roads, then another hour on unpaved dirt roads to Santa Teresa, a charming little surf town on the outer edge of the peninsula. Our home sweet home for the rest of the week was this casita nestled up with two others and a shared pool and restaurant on the beach. We spent many hours enjoying the hammocks and couches on the porch while relaxing with books and soaking up the sun and waves.
The inside was nice as well....
...and my favorite part was the outdoor shower. Pretty cool to hear the ocean from the shower.
Our view was wonderful...trees full of birds, iguanas, and squirrels. Grass with crabs, lizards, a snake (eek!), and a myriad of interesting insects. The beach was just beyond the thatched-roof restaurant.
View from the beach looking back toward the casitas and the hills beyond.
The beaches were gorgeous. They are almost completely undisturbed and no high-rise developments have come anywhere close to this corner of the world. As much as the kids would have loved this beach, I was so happy they weren't there because the surf was huge and would have been too dangerous for them in many places.
I was happy to share my walk with this lovely yellow flycatcher one morning.
Driving through Santa Teresa was a lot of fun. Just one dirt road going through town lined with little cafes, tiny stores, and a few quiet hotels and surf camps. Transportation is by foot, bike, horse, ATV, motorbike, or car. All are equally acceptable. Swimsuits and bare feet are the norm. (lucky for me! I took a vacation from makeup, shoes, and even my hairbrush!)
Bridges, on the other hand, were not so fun. This was a typical one-lane bridge, which is basically just a big drainpipe over a river with no guardrails. Thank goodness we never had to find out what happened if one of these collapsed.
Our trusty car wasn't much to look at but it sure got us around.
One morning we explored through some hills and a nature reserve and ended up in Montezuma to check out a waterfall we'd been told about. We paid an old man $2 to park our car on his property and then followed his grandson up some muddy riverbanks to a beautiful waterfall inside a little canyon. It was about 70 feet tall and we watched with our jaws dropped as some guy jumped over almost the entire length. And he lived!
The scenery was beautiful, the weather was perfect, the wildlife was amazing. It was so much fun to explore and so refreshing to relax with no schedule, no email, no little people to worry about.
We ate at the restaurant on site every night because the food was great and the location couldn't have been any more convenient. I couldn't have asked for a better way to celebrate our first decade or better company to share it with me.