It was a hard decision to stay in Indonesia for Christmas, but because of Covid-19 and the fact that we don't own a home in Houston, traveling all the way to the US didn't seem like a wise choice. Later in December, Indonesia closed its borders to foreigners (KITAS holders would later be exempted but it was confusing at first) and then required hotel quarantine starting in January, so we were extra happy with our choice to stay within the borders here. It's always sad to facetime instead of hug our loved ones at Christmas, but a change of scenery helped to kick the holiday blues.
We decided to return to Raja Ampat because our beloved resort there, Papua Explorers, reopened in October and hadn't had visitors since the end of that month. The staff was fully quarantined and thrilled to be receiving guests again. It's a long night and day of travel to get there, but so worth it.
After the painful midnight flight to Sorong, we spent a few hours in a hotel lobby napping and waiting for our boat to get stocked and ready.
The masks get annoying but they do their job!
Finally, around noon, it was time to head to the boat! Who would have thought we would ever be celebrating Christmas in Papua?
On the boat, we did swap the N95 masks for a lighter surgical mask but we were enjoying the fresh air and cool breeze after a morning of rain. It was right in the middle of rainy season and we did see a lot more cloud cover and a few hours of rain most days, but it didn't spoil much. The nights were much more comfortable and a few were even chilly! (or maybe our blood is getting thin after years in the tropics?)
After stopping at the closest town on Gam to register our negative Covid tests, we were thrilled to see the resort again.
The staff all came out to welcome us and it was the only time we saw most of them. They took Covid protocol seriously and we only interacted with a handful of people during our stay, entirely outdoors and always with masks. They were so excited to have guests again!
Pondok 16 was all ours again! It actually determined our dates because the following week a large group (including several friends of ours) was staying and someone had already booked the family bungalow.
Ahhh, the gorgeous sunrises and quiet mornings! The wild birds weren't nearly as noisy this time of year so it was a little harder to get up in the mornings. We did still see cockatoos, parrots, hornbills, and eagles. We didn't get to see the bird of paradise because the morning we had planned to go it was pouring.
Moving ahead two time zones and then asking them to get up at 7am made for some sleepy mornings!
We still spent hours watching the fish, rays, and sharks from the porch. Sadly, our resident octopus from two years ago was no longer there and I was never fortunate enough to find another.
Just like last time, breakfast started at 7:30 and the boats left at 8:30am for a snorkel, beach break and morning tea, and another snorkel. We usually returned around 12:30, had lunch at 1:00, and then went out for an afternoon snorkel at 3:00. Afternoon tea at 5:00 and dinner at 7:00. We definitely never went hungry!
I loved the Christmas decorations in the common areas! A beautiful, tropical Christmas.
The common area for meals, real coffee, and internet. Ben spent quite a bit of time here over the week to talk to the teenage girls who were there for internet.
We never did find out the story, but somehow the top of the Christmas tree must have been lost!
The food was just as good as we remembered! Fresh fish every day and several choices of Asian and western food. We piled our plates high because we burned a lot of calories in the water (or at least that's what I was telling myself!).
We saw rain most days but sometimes it was just a beautiful storm at a distance. The nice part was that the water was warm so it always felt good to get in, even if the air was cool from the rain.
We definitely enjoyed watching the rain from our huge porch! It did conveniently come after lunch several days.
Jumping off the dock was still a pretty fun activity every day!
Love these boys and we loved having all our meals together during the week. We were asked to stick to our own tables to stay distanced from the other guests.
Many a nap was taken in the comfy hammocks on our porch. The kids sat out a few afternoon snorkels to relax at home.
All of the guests were from Jakarta - a single German man, a Hungarian couple, and a French family. It made for some really interesting conversation over dinner.
Our boys and the French kids. It was really fun for them to have some nice kids around during the week, even if there was teenage awkwardness galore. Apo's own family was still in Turkey and he desperately missed his son, so he was in heaven with kids around all week, especially at Christmas.