Wednesday, April 04, 2018

Komodo Trip, Part 3

Our third day on the boat started bright and early, because as soon as the sun is up, the birds and the crew are awake, and the day gets going.  The nice part was that after dinner, we were so tired that after a game of cards or a show on the ipad, we were all ready to get to bed.  Some of us still tried for a few extra minutes of sleep, though!

I loved the quiet mornings on the deck with my coffee.

On this particular morning, I watched a pair of eagles hunting while the sun rose and the fishing boats headed out.

The village looked beautiful in the morning light.

We had one brief shower that morning - the only rain we experienced during all of spring break.  We were so fortunate!  It was close to the end of rainy season so the weather could have gone either way.

Our first stop was Loh Liang visitors center on Komodo Island.

Komodo was quite different from Rinca.  It was lush and green with lots of bird life.  Our guide was showing us all kinds of new birds and listening for different calls.

We really enjoyed seeing wild cockatoos...haven't seen them since Australia.

At the watering hole, we found our first komodo dragons of the day.  These guys were BIG. 

This one in particular got a lot of space and respect from the rangers so he must mean business. 


Here's a better idea of what it's really like visiting the komodos.  Nothing we did anywhere was crowded but you knew if people were gathered anywhere they were gawking at something interesting.

The obligatory monster photo from the guide!

We spotted this one creeping through the woods and gave him his space because he was young and obviously on the hunt.

This poor komodo deer had obviously met a dragon sometime in his past but lived to tell his tale...his little nose was hanging by a piece of skin.

As we hopped on the dinghy to get back to our boat, we found one last guest on the beach!

The very best part of living on the boat was that every time we moved to a new place, all we had to do was rest and relax.  We all took multiple, blissful naps every day.

Our second stop for the day was Karang Makasar, otherwise known as Manta Point.  We jumped in the open water anxious to spot some mantas for the first time.  It was deep but really clear.

The first time we spotted one was a moment I won't forget - these guys are incredible!

They seem to just float by effortlessly.  I'd say many of them were about 6 feet wide but we saw a few guys that had to be more like 10 feet in wingspan.



The current was really strong so the boat would drop us off, we would float with the current until we didn't see any more, then we'd hop back in the boat and watch the surface of the water for new mantas coming by.  Most were swimming into the current so we would meet them face to face.

A black shadow at the surface with little wingtips breaking the water meant it was time to jump in and go again!

Such an amazing experience!  We have snorkeled several places hoping to see them in years past but this was the first time it worked out.

The open water snorkeling was quite a workout so we were ready to take a little break.  Nearby, the kids had spotted a tiny sandy island and asked if we could stop there.  The nice part about having a private boat was that it was on our schedule!

We claimed it as Kirkham Island - Population: 4 (for about half an hour until a few other boats joined us)

At the end was an even smaller island.  The kids were happy to claim that they have likely visited the smallest island in Indonesia.

Total paradise!

Such perfect water...

Our final stop of the day was Gili Laba, off the northern coast of Komodo Island.  I loved these coves because we could just jump off the boat and swim or snorkel to our hearts' content.  It was the most populated place we visited our entire trip, and we ended up moving one cove over to spend the night...not because of the noise and lights from the other boats, but because the crew wanted better cell service to text their friends :)

Later in the afternoon, Shawn took us up to the best overlook to catch the sunset and enjoy the views.


We saw lots of Komodo deer grazing around.

Alex and Shawn had lots of fun taking pictures together.  It took several tries but Alex finally managed to get in a panoramic picture three times!

Enjoying our last evening on the islands.

The view over Komodo only got better as the sun went down.



 

We got great views of Sangeang, the volcanic island we'd seen from the plane.  It's apparently pretty active and I enjoyed seeing the smoke rising from the peak.

What a gorgeous evening!  Such a perfect final sunset for our trip.  By this point, we'd experienced everything we had hoped to see and do, so whatever else lay ahead was just icing on the cake.

Tuesday, April 03, 2018

Komodo Trip, Part 2

We woke up to a beautiful sunrise on day 2 and found ourselves in a cove dotted with small islands.
 

 I was somewhat less than excited to find my nemesis, an Asian hornet, had spent the night with us as well.  His life ended shortly after this picture.

None of slept all that well the first night, similar to the first night of camping when the noises and surroundings are unfamiliar.  A delicious breakfast sure helped get the day off on the right foot, though.

We were just a quick ride away from Loh Buaya on Rinca Island and our first visit to Komodo National Park.  It actually covers three major islands and many small ones as well.

Selamat Datang!  We were all pretty dang excited to see some komodo dragons because who hasn't watched a video of them as a kid and thought they're awesome?  We never thought we'd get this opportunity in life.

Before we spotted any dragons, we saw plenty of evidence in the tidal flats on either side of the boardwalk leading up to the ranger station.

The first one!  So surreal.  This guy was just cruising by, totally unconcerned with us.

Up by the ranger station, we met our guide who would escort us around the island.  He said the kitchen is a popular place to find many of the big guys.  They apparently don't feed them but it can't stop a dragon from wishing...


A lot of big ones were just relaxing by the kitchen.

The guides really know how to get an impressive picture!  Thank goodness, because no way were we getting that close to one of the faces.

A younger guy wandered by busily looking for something to eat.  Even he steers clear of the big fellows because he could be a snack himself.

The island also had deer, water buffalo, and monkeys...all nice meals for the komodos.
 

I would NOT mess with these guys!
 

We saw one of the komodo nests.  It seems that some guinea fowl typically start the nests (and one was busy working on hers as we watched) and the komodos just take over when they're ready to lay eggs.  We were not there during mating or nesting season, which is a good thing.

We hiked up to a pretty hill and spotted another young komodo dragon at the top, but he was quick and disappeared as soon as he saw us.

A look back at the lovely bay of Loh Buaya (Crocodile bay)
 

On our way back out, we found another big guy sunning himself in the middle of a family of monkeys.  They were respectful of his space for sure.

 After such an adventurous but sweaty morning, it was nice to get back on the boat and relax while we enjoyed the changing scenery.

We listened to an audiobook (Harry Potter #7) while we cruised through beautiful islands.  Both were enthralling.  I had a major goal of all of us unplugging from screens for 4 days and it was completely worth it.

Our next stop was Pulau Padar, which was one of my most anticipated sites.  I'd seen a few pictures from the top when we first moved to Indonesia and I knew that if I ever had the chance I would love to go there.  It was a HOT day and the sun was directly overhead, so I had to give the boys lots of encouragement to keep going up the steep path.

Just a short way up, the view was already lovely.
 

I was prepared for some incredible views, but I was still blown away.  What an amazing place!  The two beaches on the right were pristine white, the bottom one of the left was black volcanic rock, and the upper left one was pink.
 

I packed the selfie stick for this one photo!  Wish we'd gotten a few more so Alex's eyes were open but the heat was pretty intense and patience was low.

Ben and I stayed at the main lookout to soak up the views, while Matt and Alex went all the way to the top.
 


Absolutely stunning!

 Matt's view from the top was pretty amazing.  One of the most beautiful islands we've ever seen.
 

After we'd enjoyed our hike, we hustled back to the shade of the boat and a quick dip in the water before lunch.

Nothing is quite as refreshing as an ocean like this...
 

 Time for some more relaxation, naps, and changing scenery on our way around Padar towards Komodo Island.

 

 The only village we saw on our entire trip was on Komodo, and there was no doubt when we got close to it.  Several boats came up to us immediately to sell handmade goods, food, and beer. Pretty easy shopping from our own deck.
 

Ben got his turn driving the Li'l Leaker with Shawn, our guide, to the pink beach on Komodo.
 

Right at the water's edge it had a lovely pink hue.
 

 

 

The white sand is dotted with flecks of red coral, so from a distance it looks pink.
 

Ready for more snorkeling!  For some reason, the water here was really cold so we didn't last all that long.
 

 It was beautiful, though.  The coral everywhere was so diverse in shape and color.


 

It's totally different digging in pink sand!

We had one final cruise over to the island where we docked for the night, Pulau Lasa - Population: 2 (goats)
 

The small village on Komodo, which didn't seem to have any vehicles except boats.

The views around the bay were gorgeous.

Our trusty Labalaba boat, anchored offshore.

The guys prepared a beach barbecue for us on the tiny island with a freshly caught tuna on the grill.  They brought over chairs, a table, candles, and all the food.

Naturally, the kids had no problem finding something to do while preparations were being made.

Starting the grill for the fish.  Does anything taste better than a fresh catch cooked on a beach?

It was a lovely evening to sit outside and take in the sunset.  Definitely a memorable night on the beach and a very successful day #2.