Monday, January 11, 2010

New Zealand, Part I

Matt and I both agree that New Zealand is the most amazing place we've ever traveled without a doubt. It was definitely a dream come true to spend 6 days driving around the south island and while we would have loved to have more time, we made the most of every minute. Unfortunately, our flight out of Perth was delayed and we missed our connection in Auckland so we arrived in Christchurch 4 hours late. Not the end of the world but it meant we started day 1 (a 6-hour drive) at 4pm. Luckily it stays light there until 10pm so we still had plenty of daylight for most of the drive. And the delay meant we got to see one last sunset over the city of Perth before we left it for a month.

We arrived in Christchurch and drove west across the island through our first mountain pass and then headed south along the coast. It is all temperate rain forest, which is beautiful but WET. It made for treacherous driving along narrow roads and one-lane bridges in our big campervan.

On the flipside, there were waterfalls all over the place. Everywhere we looked there were beautiful cascades of water coming down the mountains. We took tons of pictures before we realized that the waterfalls were around every corner in the road.

This was our first glimpse of glacier activity. The brilliant blue water is from glacial sediment in the water that makes it look artificial.

We walked as close as we could get to the base of Fox glacier but needed a guide to go any further. It was still a beautiful sight since I'd never seen a glacier before.

Beware: falling people and rocks

Alex was fascinated by the chunks of ice. I thought it was pretty cool that there were huge blocks of ice floating down the river in front of us because we were at really low altitude for that sort of thing.

The west coast is really isolated and there is only one major road, so I was surprised that nearly every bridge was one lane meaning one side has to yield to the other. After a few days of driving we realized that there isn't much traffic so it didn't make much difference.

Our second day of driving in the rain was still pretty but rather uneventful. I was beginning to wonder if the campervan was a brilliant idea or huge mistake until we pulled into a rest stop for a break and I made the kids noodles while Matt napped. At that moment I fell in love with the "house-car", as Ben lovingly called it. And a big thanks to Matt for doing ALL the driving since it was a standard transmission and I never learned to drive a stick shift.

This was a big plus, too! The kids slept so well with all the road noise.

At the end of day 2, we started to head inland again towards Wanaka and the skies finally cleared a bit. We began to see some of the beautiful vistas we'd been looking forward to.

There is so much water in New Zealand! Lakes, rivers, streams, beaches...it was gorgeous.

We stopped in Wanaka for dinner and a break at a wonderful playground. The kids fed and chased some ducks while we all enjoyed the crisp air and scenery.

We spent the night in Queenstown and then started our journey to Milford Sound on day 3. We finally saw some blue skies! We also saw sheep everywhere. Someone told me there are more sheep than people in NZ and I totally believe it.

We drove past this amazing field and had to back up and park. It was unbelievable...if I had to picture heaven, this is how I would describe it. There was even a sweet smell in the air from the wildflowers.

We walked down into the flowers and spent some time enjoying the moment.

The mountain lupin is like bluebonnets on steriods in a rainbow of colors. Amazing!

The kids thought is was a maze made just for them and chased each other around laughing.

"Check this out!"

Another couple followed us into the field and took some pictures for us.

Just beautiful. Even the showers passing over the mountains were lovely.


Getting close to the snow on another mountain pass.

Finally at the highest point before heading down into fiordland and Milford Sound, which is a dead end with 2 campgrounds, 1 cafe, a cruise terminal, and breathtaking scenery.

We got out and let the kids enjoy the freezing air and the snow.

More waterfalls at every turn!

Alex was more fascinated with the snow than the ice and would probably still be playing there now if we hadn't pulled him away. It was his first time to see snow.

The tunnel through the mountain was also one way and regulated only by a stoplight at 15-minute intervals.

We played with the kea parrots while we waited for the light to change. These birds are really smart and we'd been warned to keep an eye on them. They work in pairs - one distracts while the other steals wiper blades off your car. We saw them in action but on someone else's car, thank goodness.

We had a wonderful night camping at the Milford Lodge and even saw glow worms after it got dark. The next morning we had hoped to see some more clear skies and take a helicopter tour but the weather had moved back in overnight and it actually snowed at higher elevations. Instead we took a cruise on the sound. Ben obviously wasn't enjoying the cold weather.
This is the famous view of Mitre Peak and typical weather for a region that gets over 22 feet of rain each year.

Again, the rain made for some spectacular waterfalls which only last about 24 hours after each downpour. And we were fortunate that it didn't rain much during our cruise.

Another waterfall pouring out of a glacial valley.

3 sisters waterfalls

We spotted several fur seals along the way.

On our drive back up towards the tunnel we got great views of the fresh snowfall.

More beautiful scenery on the drier side of the mountains.


Yep, beautiful scenery everywhere!
(couldn't resist this one)

We spent the night in Queenstown again and enjoyed some wonderful seafood and local wine at a little place right on the lake.

The campervan was terrific because we had everything we needed all the time. Matt and I always showered at the campgrounds but Alex still prefers baths and we made do. He didn't seem to mind the size of this bathtub.

Even better was the kids' bed over the cab of the truck. We chose this particular model because it had a safety net so we could toss the kids up there and lock them in for the night. Some nights they'd pass out immediately and other nights they played for hours.

Leaving Queenstown driving toward Mt. Cook we began to see some of the gorgeous rivers and stopped at this one to watch the bungee jumpers. And no, we didn't even think of joining them!

A lovely gorge with Chard Farm Winery on the left. We enjoyed their wines and also stopped at a cheese factory to gorge ourselves.

It amazed me how driving just 10-15km sometimes would put us in an entirely new landscape. We passed several places were Lord of the Rings scenes had been filmed, including this one. Don't know which one but they were dotted on our map. We declined the tour where you put on the full costumes and reenact battle scenes.

Want to see more? The best is yet to come...keep reading the next post!

New Zealand, Part II

Our next stop was the dazzling Lake Pukaki at the foot of Mt. Cook, New Zealand's highest peak. Ben managed to find a group of Chinese tourists and entertained them for a while.

It was another glacial lake with blinding color.





More fields of wildflowers. I'm sure they have some sort of season and we were so fortunate to see them at their peak.

Another oops! Turn your back on Ben for a second and he'll be peeing in your yard.

Another great photo op in front of Lake Tekapo. Both the lake and the little town were charming.


Another thing we loved about camping - the view changed every day. This one was particularly good with the lake in the background and the kids loved the campsite because it had resident ducks that came to our door begging for food.

One very unhappy camper early the next morning. He wasn't quite as interested in the fresh snowfall overnight. We all woke up cold on our last day but didn't realize just how low the temperature had dipped overnight until we looked at the dusting on all the mountains almost down to our elevation.


Here's a look at our trusty ride. We saw some great scenery from her windows during the trip but decided to park her for an hour and take a scenic flight.

Ben and Daddy on the 1-hour flight.

A channel coming from Lake Pukaki used for hydroelectric power.

Enormous glacier fields littered with random boulders.

Glacial valley in the Southern Alps.

Flying directly towards Mt. Cook, elevation 12,316 feet. We had perfect flying conditions with clear skies and great visibility.

The base of the Tasman Glacier (covered in dirt) and a big iceburg floating in its lake.

Mt. Cook

Fresh snow packed along the side


The top of the Fox Glacier that we had seen several days before and the ocean beyond it.






The kids did amazingly well on our crazy driving adventure. We averaged about 5 hours in the car each day but stopped often for pictures and sightseeing. Otherwise, these two were sleeping or engaged in their favorite activity - watching movies.

Lush farmland outside of Christchurch.

We had exactly enough time to return our campervan, get to the airport and check our bags in, then take 4 more flights to get to Houston. When we got off I asked Ben if he wanted to ride in another plane and he said "yes!". We are blessed with good travelers! Of course, we'll give them anything on the plane to keep them entertained...

I can't say enough good things about New Zealand because the scenery is unbelievable, the people are so friendly, and the towns are quaint and welcoming without being touristy. We didn't begin to touch the surface of all there is to see and do so maybe we'll be fortunate enough to go back one day and see more of it.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

World Travelers

We did it! We circumnavigated the globe in just 30 days for a grand total of 25,267 miles in approximately 55 hours of flying time. We visited 3 continents and saw lots of family and friends (but still ran out of time before we could catch up with everyone, of course) and ate our fair share in each place. While it was so wonderful to be home, it's good to be back in our own home. (I find myself using the term "home" for both places) It's nice to unpack and put the suitcases away for a while. It's great to sleep in our own beds again. But it sure is quiet here. And we're all fighting the jetlag of a 14-hour time difference...Alex has been up for the day at 3:30 on the dot the past three mornings. Hopefully we'll all get caught up on our sleep and on the right side of the clock again soon.

We brought back exactly 400lbs of checked baggage, which was our limit on Singapore airlines coming from the US. What I didn't realize as I was carefully stuffing and weighing our bags is that the weight limit is 175lbs from Singapore to other countries. Since we collected all our bags there and spent a wonderful day and night with friends there, we had to check in again the next day with all 8 enormous bags. The agent calculated the excess baggage fee and told us it would be S$2,400. What?!? After a little sweating and some polite negotiations, his manager agreed that it was an extension of our US trip and allowed it through for free. Whew!! I did a year's worth of shopping for clothes, shoes, and rotel and wasn't about to leave it in Singapore. In case you're wondering what that kind of mess looks like, this should give you an idea:
It took two days but I've finally gotten control of the chaos and I think the house is back in order. Now I'll spend some time this week catching up on the blog so you can see how much we enjoyed our crazy trip around the globe.

Monday, January 04, 2010

It's About That Time

Happy 2010 to everyone and we hope it brings much joy and happiness! To us, the dawning of a new year means packing up hundreds of pounds of stuff into suitcases, saying goodbye to our families, and flying thousands of miles home. As always, it's very bittersweet. We're looking forward to putting the suitcases away, sleeping in our own beds, and getting on with our normal lives again, but it's always so hard to leave here. Especially now that the kids are getting older and know their grandparents and aunts and uncle and don't want to leave them. We have all had a wonderful time together and are already looking forward to our next trip back.

Our saving grace on this LONG trip is an overnight stop in Singapore for a quick reunion with old friends and favorite foods, then one more flight on to Perth. We leave tomorrow afternoon and should arrive home on Friday afternoon with 10 bags, 1 stroller, and 2 worn out kids. Please pray for well-behaved boys and patient parents!

So long wintertime and mexican food....hello summertime down under!